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On this page you will find basic obedience training tips. The guidelines are not set in stone but are good first steps. There are many books,
websites, kennel clubs, and professional instructors available that can provide further information.
You just have to take the time to look for them.
Someone once said:
"There are no bad dogs, just bad Owners"
I believe that to be true!
BASIC RULE OF TRAINING: Never punish your puppy after you have called
him to you. Do not say "Here, Max" and then let him have it. If you do, Max will stop coming when he is called.
NOTE: If you do not want your puppy to do something as an adult, DO NOT let him do it as a puppy.
(i.e.: jumping on you, the couch or bed etc.)
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HOUSE RULES: Try to establish some house rules.
If your puppy gets on the sofa or bed and you do not allow him on there,
then say "NO!" and make him get down. Once the pup is on the ground, praise
him. Say "Good dog!" Keep in mind that puppies have very short memories, so your correction must
immediately follow the bad behavior. It is also important to be consistent. Everyone in the household must follow your lead. Otherwise, your puppy will
become confused.
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Shoe chewing. Well, this is definitely wrong, but you realize that teething puppies do need to chew. Take the shoe from the puppy and immediately say "NO"!
Then give the puppy something he can chew on, like a chew toy, and praise him "Good dog!"
- Never hit your puppy. Aggression will confuse and scare your puppy. Besides being cruel, hitting your puppy will make
him timid. In addition, if you hit a large dog, he may feel threatened and turn on you. You might want to try having a fly swatter
around the house. Most puppies do not like the noise the fly swatter makes through the air or if you slap it on the table. In
my experience, it seems to get their attention very quickly. A can full of coins is a similar item that can be used to get their attention.
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HOUSEBREAKING: Most puppies that come from breeders are paper trained. Below are some guidelines that may assist in
housebreaking.
- When the pup wakes up, the first thing they will want to do is urinate. Before the pup fully wakes up, take the pup outside or
to the paper to go potty.
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The way we train our puppies is we have them sleep between our heads and during the middle of the night if we feel the pup move towards the end of the bed
we pick the pup up and take them to the papers or outside.
- Do not let the pup touch the floor until you get them either outside or on the paper because they will urinate immediately.
- Young puppies have poor bladder control; they urinate about 6-8 times a day. Make sure you start a schedule/routine with your new puppy, so he knows
when and where he should eliminate. Pups older than 8 weeks old get used to eliminating on a certain surface. So it is best to take your pup outside
instead of taking him to the paper.
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- Put a bell on the puppy's collar if you need to, so you know where he is at all times. Whenever you can not watch the puppy, put him in his crate.
This might sound cruel, but it is not. Most puppies are reluctant to soil their living areas, so they will not eliminate in their crates. They will
also start seeing it as their little den and go in by themselves if you leave the door opened for them.
- REMEMBER, puppies can not hold it for long, so you can not leave your puppy in his crate for long periods of time until they are older. Take
your puppy outside to the same spot when it is time to potty. If your puppy is paper trained, you might want to put some newspaper down in your
backyard. Doing this will help your puppy associate that particular location with elimination, so he will make the connection more quickly.
Be patient, it takes time. Most pups will sniff for 15 or 20 minutes before they go. Avoid playing with the puppy until after he eliminates.
- Use the same key words when you are referring to elimination. For example: "Go potty" "Go tinkle" or "Go pee-pee". The dog will associate
the words with the action.
- Feeding the puppy at the same time each day will help put him on a schedule. Puppies usually defecate 20 minutes after eating.
NEVER WITHOLD WATER IN AN ATTEMPT TO CONTROL WHEN YOUR PUPPY ELIMINATES.
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When it comes to housebreaking, praise is paramount. Praise your puppy immediately after
he goes every time.
If you catch your puppy eliminating in the house, make a loud noise, like clapping your hands, shout "NO" or stamp your foot. Then take the puppy outside to eliminate. Never hit or physically hurt your puppy or shove its nose in the soiled area. Punishment will only scare the puppy and make
him timid.
If your puppy has an accident when you are not home, and you discover it later, it is too late to punish the puppy. The puppy will no know what
he is being punished for.
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TRAINING THE BASICS: Teaching your puppy commands will help you get control. Additionally, the time you spend
together during your training sessions will help the two of you bond.
YOU WILL NEED: A CHOKE COLLAR AND LEAD (Some dogs need the spiked choker because they are knuckleheads. LOL It does not hurt them because the ends are
not sharp, but it does get their attention. You must place it close to the ears because that is where the more sensitive nerves are.)
You can determine the correct choke collar size for your puppy by measuring around the largest part of the
puppy's head and then adding an inch.
- Walking on a Lead:
Let the puppy get used to wearing the collar before you attempt to walk him on a lead. Once he gets used to the collar,
put the lead on. If he is afraid of the lead, make it fun for him by coxing him with a treat or toy. Always walk him on your left.
This comes in handy if you decide to show him later on. Praise, praise, praise.
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- Heeling: (First command to be taught)
The heel command is used to keep a dog beside the owner. Keep your puppy at your left side and start to walk. Then call the
puppy's name and say
"Heel" - "Max heel".
Give the command as you take the first step and then snap the lead so the dog moves. Each time the puppy moves away from
your left side say, "Max heel" and snap the lead.
Be patient and keep your first few training sessions short. Fifteen minutes, two or three times a
day, is enough to start. In time you can increase the length of the sessions.
Use the choke only when you have to with as little force as possible.
Try to use quick jerks rather than strong pressure. Remember to praise your puppy lavishly when
he stays by your side. Wait until this is
learned before you move onto the next command.
- Sitting: (Second command to be taught)
Start by heeling the puppy at your left side. When you stop walking give the sit command.
Place your left hand on the puppy's rear and guide him into a sitting position.
Use your right hand to hold the lead so the puppy's head stays up.
Let the puppy remain sitting for a moment, then give the heel command and start walking again.
Keep practicing and keep praising.
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- Staying: (Third command to be taught)
Have your puppy sit and tell him to stay. (Make sure the puppy is on the lead when you do this.)
After you give the command, place the palm of your left hand in front of the
puppy's muzzle and move a step or two away. Repeat the stay command
"Max, stay" in a firm voice.
Do not make your puppy stay very long at first - 10 or 15 seconds is good. Slowly increase the time of the stay and the distance you step away.
Very well trained dogs only have to be told to stay once and will stay until their owners release them.
- Standing and Staying: (Fourth command to be taught)
Like the sit command, the stand-stay command is taught from the heel position.
Slow your puppy down to a heel and give the command, "Max, stand", then "Max, stay". Now block the dogs sit by placing your left hand in front
of the top of your puppy's right hind leg. (Remember, you taught your puppy to sit automatically whenever you stop walking.)
Gently block your puppy's sit. Then start walking again using the heel command and stop again using the stand-stay command.
In time, your puppy will realize that when you stop walking, he should sit unless you tell
him otherwise.
Remember to praise, praise, and praise.
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- Lying Down: (Fifth command to be taught)
To teach your puppy to lie down, sit him by your side.
Kneel beside him and reach over his back with your left arm, taking hold of his upper left front leg.
Then take his right front leg in your right hand. Tell the puppy "Max, down", and guide him into the down position by easing his body down.
Release your grasp when the puppy is down while saying "Max, down, stay"! Try to get the puppy to stay for a few seconds before your release him.
Get the dog to sit again and try once more. Eventually you will be able to have the puppy lie down, tell him to stay, and walk away from him.
Praise, praise and more prai
- Coming: (Sixth command to be taught)
Come is an important command for your puppy to learn. It is normally taught last since the come command works best if your puppy learns the other commands first.
When your puppy is heeling at your side, step back and say, "Max, come".
As you give the command, snap the lead and make the puppy turn around to his right while walking so he's standing facing you.
Then get the puppy to come toward you by gently tugging his lead.
Give the puppy lots of praise. In time, you and your puppy will be able to do this without the lead. Remember to praise.
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Obedience Class: (When all else fails and your pulling
your hair out)
If you are really having a tough time getting your puppy to listen to you, consider enrolling him in a dog obedience class which also helps
with socialization.
A professional trainer will know how to handle your particular breed. Ask a local breeder, kennel club, veterinarian, or look in the phone book for a class or
instructor nearby.
A couple of areas you can start with if you are located in Northern New
York are
Certified Canine Services, or the
North Country Kennel Club.
However, wait until your puppy is 6 - 8 months old before you try to teach him professional obedience commands.
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Canine Ownership Awareness
