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This page is lengthy but I encourage you to read it begin to end.
Sources: Canine behavior experts Pat Miller of
Peaceable Paws, Kathy Diamond Davis of
Veterinary Partners, Linda B. Mullally and Pam Young of
Dog Training Basics.
What is socialization, and why is it so important?
From 8 to 12 weeks of age, puppies go through a fear imprinting stage. During
this time, it is crucial to carefully introduce a pup to a variety of stimuli
every day, and to ensure that the experiences are positive. This is also a good
time to start training the pup in basic behaviors.
These socialization efforts make the difference in the dog's outlook on life.
Instead of reacting fearfully to new experiences, the dog is comfortable when
encountering new things, animals and people. This helps the dog and everyone
else, since the most common cause of unprovoked dog aggression is lack of proper
socialization.
What is socialization? Introducing and familiarizing a canine to new
experiences - including people, places, objects, other animals - in ways that
help the dog learn how to respond to and interact with these experiences
appropriately and without fear.
The list of things to socialize a pup, or dog, to include umbrellas, canes,
wheelchairs, bikes, keys, men with beards, people in hats, young children,
passing trucks, odd sounds and sudden, loud noises and other animals.
The puppy brain is most inclined to accept new experiences between 4 and 12
weeks of age. Missing the window after 14 weeks of age can socially handicap the
pup. Of course, the dog can still learn, but it is harder, mostly due to the
need for to help the pup unlearn unproductive and inappropriate responses.
Prevention is far better than rehabilitation, so if you can work within a
puppy's critical learning window, you and the pup have an immense advantage.
Socialization Principles
Introduce the pup to new people, places, objects and situations ONLY when you
can control the experience.
It's your job to protect the dog from situations that frighten him. Something
as simple as letting someone get too close too soon can cause a setback in
socialization, causing the dog to hide behind you or adopt a fear-aggressive
posture and growl at the offending person. If this does happen, correct the
human, not the dog. Tell the person to back away, which will show the dog you
can protect the pack and that he does not have to.
When working on socializing your pup or dog, do not impose on other people.
First ask for their help. Most people will oblige.
Taking a pup on walks on leash offers effective opportunities for
socialization. However, avoid dog parks and other areas where there's higher
risk of exposure to disease. Do not let your dog sniff feces or to play with any
dogs who might be unhealthy or aggressive.
Introduce a puppy into a large group only after having socialized him to
smaller groups.
Use treats, praise, touch, even play to reward, and thus reinforce, your dog
for displaying positive responses.
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Reward the behaviors that you want repeated and ignore or give a signal to
the behaviors you do not like. The signal could be "uh uh" or "too bad". If the
signal does not discourage the undesired behavior, try a time out - a brief
separation period from the fun interactive environment.
Be aware of the signals you send. Make it obvious to your dog that you enjoy
encountering other people, animals and things. Even puppies observe and sense
their handlers reactions.
You must think of what you are teaching your dog in every situation. Your dog
is aware of your actions and reactions, your attention or lack of attention,
even if you don't realize it.
Understand when and why your dog shows fear, but do not reinforce it. Cooing,
coddling and cuddling a pup or dog when she is showing fear will not help the
animal lose that fear. Help your canine realize that you have control of the
situation and that the dog does not have to be afraid, or take matters into his
own paws (or jaws). You are the alpha, and you want your dog to trust that you
will protect him.
It is not fair to put any dog in a situation in which he might feel
threatened or prompted to use his teeth. This is why you must educate not only
your dog but the people in your home. For example, it is essential to teach
family members never to bother dogs when eating, playing with a favorite toy, or
resting.
Be careful about the people you choose to help care for your dog. Be it your
spouse, roommate, children or pet sitter, you need to explain that you are
trying to socialize your pup, and that it is necessary for them to reinforce
good behaviors in the same way you do in order for the pup to learn. If you are
not sure an individual will abide by this, limit that person's contact with your
dog during the socialization and training stages. Otherwise, the person can
undermine and undo the progress you make with your dog.
One reason that puppies should not be separated from their mother and
littermates before 8 weeks of age is that they learn core behaviors from mother
dog and siblings. These include proper social play and bite inhibition.
Socialization does not end at puppyhood. While the foundation for good
behavior is laid during the first few months, good owners encourage and
reinforce social skills and responsiveness to commands throughout the dog's
life.
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Steps to Socializing Your Pup or Dog
- Interaction is key to socialization.
As pack animals and social beings, dogs need interaction with their owners,
other people and other animals. The more you isolate the dog, and the less you
interact with the dog, the more likely she will develop negative behaviors.
Companionship is vital to a dog's emotional well-being. Integrate the pup
into your family from the start. Place your pup's crate or play pen in a room in
which your family spends considerable time each day.
Raise a dog in an environment that doesn't allow him to be teased, tormented
or attacked by other dogs. Tying a dog up or fencing in a location where other
dogs can agitate him leads to dog aggression. People who want their dogs to live
outside should not get dogs.
Part of interacting with a dog of any age involves consistently rewarding all
desirable behaviors - thus increasing the likelihood the dog will repeat those
behaviors - and to take steps to prevent the development of undesirable
behavior.
The latter is usually accomplished by redirecting the dog's energy into a
positive behavior for which you can reward her, and when she does something
"bad", to ignore the undesired behavior. This is based on the principle that
dogs typically engage in behaviors to get attention and/or obtain something they
desire such as a treat, toy, special privilege or higher status.
And this is why pushing off a jumping dog usually will not stop the jumping
behavior; even though pushing the dog away seems like a negative reaction, to
the dog seeking attention, any interaction she achieves seems better than none.
Therefore, it is far better to get your dog to "sit" before she tries to jump.
That way, you can reward her with the attention she wants, while reinforcing
only good behavior. It is important to think about why your dog is engaging in a
particular behavior.
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- Socializing with other dogs.
Exposing a puppy or new dog to other friendly dogs is the best way to teach
essential social skills. (This is why canine behavior experts warn not to bring
a second dog into your family until the resident dog has been taught good
behavior and social skills.) Writes Pat Miller in "Plays Well With Others,"
(Whole Dog Journal, March 2000), playtime with other puppies and non-aggressive
adult dogs enables a dog to learn how to talk and read "dog-ese" through
appropriate interactions with and responses to other dog's body language. If
this doesn't happen during the pup's critical learning period, well before the
age of six months, you may end up with a canine nerd whose inept use of physical
and postural language gets him into trouble. Either he sends inappropriate
messages or fails to respond appropriately to another dog's message.
Playtime in a controlled situation is a great way to socialize your pup to
other people and dogs. Find friends who have healthy puppies and gentle adult
dogs, and invite them over to play.
If one dog starts bullying another, intervene. The old saw about "dogs will
work it out themselves" does not apply here. Your impressionable pup can develop
defensive aggression if frightened by the dominant or intense nature of another
pup or dog. Firmly but calmly interrupt undesired behavior the moment it occurs
using brief time-outs. Do not yell at, smack or otherwise punish the
roughhousing dog; just separate him from the interaction. Also watch for good
behavior. To encourage good behavior, you want to take all opportunities to
praise and reward with small treats when the dog is playing well with others.
Vigorous play is OK as long as both dogs are having fun. Be ready to
intervene if the one appears scared or things start to get out of hand.
Be aware that when a male pup starts sexually maturing, he exudes
testosterone, which can lead to dominance issues and disrupt relationships with
other canines. This is one of the many good reasons for neutering dogs at a
young age, before sexual maturity. If a male dog is intact (not neutered), that
increases the potential for conflicts and fights.
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- Out in public.
Taking a dog out in public to meet other people and dogs is an essential part
of socialization.
When dogs meet on-leash, keep the leash loose as much as possible.
Restraining the leash tightly telegraphs your tension to the dog. A dog will be
more relaxed if he thinks his owner is not anxious and that he has some room to
maneuver.
Dogs in neighboring yards might be territorial. Carefully introduce pets on
neutral ground. Keep your pup on a leash and never approach another dog until
you have asked the owner if it is OK.
If you see a dog off-leash, watch for body language. For example, a wagging
tail and relaxed posture are more welcoming signs than raised hackles, erect
tails and staring. If you sense any tension, change your walking route or pick
up your young pup and prevent the animals from having eye contact.
It does a disservice to all to let a dog off-leash in public, since dogs can
rarely figure out on their own how human society expects them to behave. As for
the attitude, "my dog just wants to say hi!" - in many cases, the objects of the
dog's interest don't want to say hi back ... and in some cases, the dog himself
actually wants to do more than say hi, possibly leading to an aggressive
encounter. Even the assumption that an off-leash dog approaching another canine
just wants to play is often wrong. The approaching dog may be more interesting
in establishing him- or herself as alpha or declaring "this is my territory."
Some dogs may work it out without owner intervention, but most often, they need
human intervention and control.
Contrary to popular belief, it's not normal for adult dogs to instantly come
together, bond with one another and play. It's not even normal for humans; watch
children and you'll notice that kids are typically selective about who they wish
to fraternize and play with. Forcing a dog into a social situation for which the
owner has not thoroughly prepared him for can be a plan for disaster.
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- Puppy kindergarten and dog obedience classes.
Enroll in puppy kindergarten and training class. This provides a great
opportunity for puppies to socialize with other dogs ... for puppies to get
introduced to obedience concepts in a playful environment with distractions ...
and for owners to learn how to communicate with their pups. In the past, some
experts recommended that puppies be kept from social interaction until they
received all of their shots. However, more recent evidence indicates that it is
better for pups to be given social activities and taken out in the human world
at younger ages (for example, between 8 and 10 weeks of age).
Observe a class or two before signing up, since you want to make sure that
the trainer carefully supervises and controls the environment and does not allow
more dominant dogs to bully others.
Obedience training and agility training are excellent ways to help a dog feel
more comfortable and confident in public and with other dogs and people. Just as
it works with people, learning new skills improves the dog's outlook on life as
well as self-confidence. For many dogs, as with people, problems result when
brains and energy are underutilized.
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- Children and dogs.
Instruct children to greet and pet the pup gently, and without picking the
puppy up.
Explain to and remind children that puppies are not toys and that they need
to be treated with care.
Teach children never to bother a pup or dog when eating, chewing on a toy,
resting or with when a mother dog is near her puppies.
Do not expect a pup or dog to accept rough handling, tail and ear pulling,
poking, prodding, teasing, taunting, yelling, screaming, chasing or jerky
movements that can seem threatening. Many if not most dog bites in the home are
provoked - and they can be prevented if the owners act with greater
responsibility.
ALWAYS supervise children and dogs of any age to avoid adding to the
statistics of children, puppies and dogs injured by one another.
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- Preparing to meet new people..
Invite people you trust into your home starting soon after you bring your new
dog home so that she learns that visitors are welcome.
You can circumvent a lot of common problems by making the effort to introduce
your pup or new dog to postal carriers, delivery workers and utility employees
early on. First, of course, ask the person's permission to introduce the dog. A
smart move that will hasten the dog's acceptance: give the worker some treats
for using in rewarding your dog for good behavior. Frequent visits with positive
outcomes will likely reduce the pup's excitability.
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- Being a leader to your dog.
Dogs depend on their owners to be leaders, to teach them proper behavior, and
to manage situations - not just when the dogs are puppies, but throughout their
lives. In addition, dogs depend on pack order for a sense of security. The owner
should be the Alpha - meaning leader, not bully.
Keep in mind that if a dog can't count on his owner for leadership, he is not
likely to listen when the owner does try to command his attention.
Routine and consistency result in happier, calmer and better socially
integrated dogs. Be consistent; "no" should always mean no. And be fair; you
can't expect your dog to understand you unless you take the time to train and
educate him. Dog folks help their dogs and themselves by polishing their canine
parenting skills.
When a dog is confident in his owner, and when a dog is well-socialized, he
can stay calm in potentially threatening situations in public and in the home.
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- Encouraging good habits in puppies.
Take and make opportunities to praise your dog.
Condition your pup to accept gentle touching and petting. When your pup is in
a calm state, practice examining him from head to toe, gently and patiently.
This exercise will pay off later when you need to check your dog for ticks, clip
his nails, or when the pup goes to the vet or groomer.
Teach your dog his name. And that his name means "pay attention and look at
me."
Begin teaching your pup to come by calling him to you enthusiastically and
rewarding the come with a petting stroke, a "good dog," and a tasty treat.
Never use your dog's name in an angry tone, to call him for a reprimand, or
for anything he finds unpleasant. You want the pup to associate his name as well
as coming to you with good things.
Get your pup used to a leash early on by using it every time you take him
outside for potty breaks and walks.
You can keep your puppy from developing the habit of jumping up on people. Do
not let anyone pet the puppy when he is standing on hind legs. Put the puppy
back on the ground before he gets attention and petting every single time.
Avoid chasing your pup. Instead, encourage the pup to follow you.
When the pup mouths you, make a "yip" sound to let the pup know "stop it,
that hurts!" Stop playtime when the pup nips, since play will reinforce the
unwanted behavior. Dogs who aren't stopped from teething on and nipping people
will likely continue that behavior.
When playing with your puppy, use chew toys to redirect his sharp teeth from
your hands, clothing and furniture. Encourage gentle play instead of
roughhousing, play-fighting and teasing that all can lead to problems. Remember,
little puppies grow into strong, active dogs.
Proactively condition your dog NOT to protect his food and toys. Remove his
food dish at least once during feeding. Put an extra treat in the bowl before
setting it down gives your pup a positive association with someone removing his
bowl. With toys, gently take the toy away and say, "out" or "drop it." Reward
the pup with a "good dog" and a treat, then give the toy back.
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- Multiple pups and pets.
If you currently have other pets, let them get used to the smell and sound of
the new pup from across a door or through a create. Closely supervise the
initial interactions and don'ts leave the new pup alone with other pets at least
until you are sure they are safe together.
Help reassure resident pets that the new arrival is not a threat to their
position in the family by maintaining the same feeding, playing and walking
routines. Make sure the resident pets are getting as much attention as before.
Be sensitive to elderly pets who may feel harassed by the younger newcomer's
rambunctious playing. Use the crate to give the puppy a rest and the other pets
a break.
- Remember.
If you want a well-adjusted dog, actively seek new experiences and arrange
for pleasant encounters throughout your pet's puppy hood. This is how dogs learn
to respond to situations in life without fear. Socialization is the most
important process in a puppy's life, ranking right up with proper feeding,
shelter and medical care. Socialized canines are typically happy, friendly,
predictable and able to handle stress. Under-socialized pups often become
fearful, shy, unconfident, anxious, unhappy, unstable and sometimes even
fear-aggressive. Such dogs are hard to live with, and the person responsible is
the owner. Make time to socialize your pup or adult dog.
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What Every Puppy Should Learn - by Pam Young
- to be comfortable in a crate, both when owners are home as well as when owners are gone
- to eliminate outside (on command would be nice!)
- to respect human hands and skin (no nipping or mouthing!)
- to not jump up on humans or countertops
- to respect their owners as the leader of the pack
- to release or relinquish food, toys or inappropriate objects when told
- to come when called
- to be tolerant of handling (nail trims, cleaning ears, kids grabbing fur, taking things out of mouth, drops in eyes, giving pills, bathing,
brushing/grooming...)
- to "leave it" when told
- no chasing bicycles, children, squirrels, rabbits, cars, balls....
- to walk without pulling
- to sit, down, stay, wait on command
- to be comfortable and under control in new or uncomfortable places such as the veterinary hospital, groomer, boarding kennel, training class, pet store,
other people's homes
- to be comfortable when separated from other dogs, pets or people in their family - able to stay alone without destruction, barking or nervousness
- to play, chew or relax without constant contact or interaction from owner
- to be tolerant of and possibly sociable with other dogs
- to not be protective of food, bowl, crate, toys or bed
- to quiet barking when told
- to greet friends and strangers without jumping or shying away
- to not rush through doorways or down stairs ahead of owner
- to move off furniture, bed or other location without delay when directed
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Canine Ownership Awareness
